The Appeal of Lace

This term describes various kinds of fine fabric distinguished by open work and created by plaiting numerous threads attached to individual bobbins (bobbin or pillow lace) or by working with a needle and a single thread (needlepoint lace). Both types of lace are known to have been produced in the Middle and Near East in pre-Christian times.

The production of lace languished in the Dark Ages and was revived in medieval times. It attained its peak during the Italian Renaissance, when many of the styles in use to this day were formulated. Fine lace spread from Italy to France and Flanders in the 16th century and thence to England and Germany.

The wearing of lace was in vogue from the 16th to the late 19th century, but handmade lace gave way to machine-made lace from about 1840 onwards. Handmade lace never quite died out, and has enjoyed an enormous revival in recent years. Although avidly collected while it was fashionable, lace dropped out of favour for many years and only really became collected again to any extent in the 1960s. In the ensuing decade shrewd collectors scooped up many fine pieces at rock-bottom prices, but once the world's leading salerooms began to take notice of this revived interest the market values hardened.

The golden age of European lace was the period from 1600 to 1800. During these two centuries distinctive styles emerged in Italy, such as Point de Venise, Genoese and Milanese bobbin lace, and the Low Countries which specialised in Brussels Point, Mechelin, Binche, Valenciennes and Point d'Angleterre. French lace attained its peak in the second half of the 17th century and continued until the Revolution in 1789. Distinctive styles include Point de France, Point d'Argentan and Point d'Alencon as well as Lille bobbin lace. In the late 18th century Chantilly became an important centre for the manufacture of Blonde lace, with a light mesh and floral sprays. English lace dates from the late 17th century, the products of Honiton and Buckinghamshire being derived from Flemish patterns. Drawn thread lace embroidered on fine muslin was a speciality of Germany and Denmark, while Spanish reticella and Swiss lace are also highly prized. The quality of lace declined in the 19th century as more and more of it was produced by machine, although there was also some excellent applique, tambour and net embroidery which is worth looking for. Lace is collectable in small pieces by the yard or metre, but complete articles are worth a premium and range from cap-lappets, collars, cuffs and ruffs to caps, aprons, bridal veils, babies' robes and christening shawls.